Saturday, October 18, 2014

Athens

Athens was the most disgusting city I have ever seen. I would rather not relive the stench, grime, panhandling, and generally gross feeling I had while we were there. Instead I would like to focus on the ruins we saw, which were in such stark contrast to everywhere else in Athens that it felt like a different world.

Acropolis Museum

We started at the Acropolis Museum, which is really beautiful and positively stuffed with artifacts and information. It's also only about seven bucks a person, which is kind of insane. The museum is built over the ruins of a small village, and you can walk over it and look down to see the site. They are working on preparing it for visitors in the future to walk around through it.

In the lobby the walls are covered with artifacts from about 1500 BC and later. Everything from cooking pots to marriage vases to loom weights to toys for children to makeup bowls to jewelry and you name what else. They do not allow photography of any kind in the museum, but we did buy a book from their bookstore that has photos of pretty much everything.

On the second floor we found tons of statues of the gods as well as everyday people, and even some treaties between Athens and other cities. It was incredibly cool to be able to actually read certain things, like "Samos" on the treaty between Athens and Samos, that were carved into stone a few millennia ago.

The third floor had a movie area where they described the history of the parthenon. From the movie, we learned that the parthenon has been through several wars, was turned into a church, was turned into a mosque, endured fires and explosions, and was pillaged by many groups and individuals. What was left of the statues and carvings have been removed from the parthenon and placed in the museum in order to secure and preserve them. A large number of the pieces were removed by a British lord in the 1800s and are still at the British Museum, which is a huge controversy.

On the same floor was an exhibit about how historians and archeologists are learning about the statues and artifacts by replicating them with the same tools, materials, and techniques.

The top floor was all about the parthenon. In fact, they basically created a large rectangular donut around the central area of the floor, and they placed the carvings and statues according to how they were positioned in the parthenon. So you could walk all the way around, following the stories told in the carvings. We had to come back a second time to see everything we wanted to see.


Acropolis

The next day we hiked up to the Acropolis, which was no small feat. It was really incredible to be there and think about how many thousands of years there have been people walking through it. It was a good place for a citadel because it was high up and offered a good view of the surrounding land. I will post photos because it is too difficult to describe with words. But I really think everyone should go see it if they ever get the opportunity, despite my non-love for Athens in general.


Agora

Our last day in Athens (and Greece) we were spent and gross and ready to go home. But we wanted to make the most of our day, so we went to the ancient agora and wandered around. Then, because my feet were aching from being on our feet all day at the museum and then hiking up to the Acropolis, we sat down under a shady tree in the middle of the agora and read a book together. We were reading Penelope's Daughter, which takes place in ancient Greece, so it was appropriate.


Trekking Home

I also don't want to relive the nightmare of trying to get back home, but I can't very well make this statement

I will never, ever, ever, ever, ever again fly to or through Heathrow Airport ever.

without some sort of explanation. So here it is:

There was fog in London (imagine that). Boarded our plane from Athens to London on time. Sat on the plane, unmoving, for three hours before taking off. Landed in London with 30 minutes to get to our gate. Waited 30 minutes for a bus to take us to our terminal. A couple buses drove by without stopping because they were too full to take on additional passengers. Finally bussed to our terminal, which was a 15 minute ride. Entered a hell dimension in which we were passed from one line to the next to the next, only to be told we were in the wrong line and needed to go to a different one, surrounded by extremely angry people who had missed multiple flights because of the disorganization, for six consecutive hours. People were yelling and breaking down crying. Finally got to the counter, waited 30 minutes to be told we needed to go back to our original terminal because they couldn't help us. During this time we had no idea where our luggage was or if it was lost forever. Waited again for bus, took 15 min ride back to terminal 2. Went through customs. Went through security. Were told the counter we needed was outside security/customs. Arrived at proper counter and they were closed for an hour. Got dinner. Came back to counter just before opening. Waited at counter for an hour while the agent (the only agent) got us new flights and arranged a hotel. Meanwhile, line formed behind us that was multiple blocks long and a lady in the line collapsed from exhaustion and they called an ambulance. Got our tickets and waited for the hotel bus, which was going to take that entire line of people to the hotel also. They were talking to each individual in the line, but after about an hour they just told the entire line to follow them outside to the hotel busses. Got on the bus, went to hotel, got on line at the hotel to be checked in. Fortunately we were near the front of the line. Got our key, dropped our stuff in our room, went to the hotel restaurant for dinner (with a voucher). Food was disgusting. Came out and saw that the line for checking in was still way out the door.

Got to the airport very early the next morning. Confirmed the whereabouts of our luggage, but did not have access to them. Went through security, waited for our plane, boarded, miraculously took off after a short delay. Landed in Washington DC with 40 minutes to catch our connecting flight. Stood on customs line for approximately 30 minutes. Sprinted to luggage pickup, drop off (they require you to physically get your bag and move it to a drop off point - to ensure that your luggage doesn't end up on a flight that you are not on). Waited in line to hand in our customs declaration even though we had already gone through customs. Went through security. Sprinted to our gate, agent told us they had already been told to close the doors, they walkie-talkied to hold the doors, we RAN down the tunnel way to the plane, arrived at our seats sweaty and panting.

Arrived on time in San Francisco approximately 27 hours later than originally planned (and having worn same clothes for 48 hours), waited for luggage, luggage did not arrive. Went to counter to inquire about luggage, ours had been on a later flight because they weren't able to load our bags in time. Waited another 45 minutes for the following flight to land and unload. Got our bags, caught a cab, collapsed in our apartment.


Now That We Are Home

It took me about two weeks to get over the jet lag and the exhaustion of the trip home. I felt like I needed a vacation from our vacation. We tried to pack light, so we had almost no room in our suitcases for souvenirs, but we managed to bring home a couple of small things to remember our trip by. For now, I kind of feel like I just want to stay home and never travel again, but I think that will change soon enough. I am just very, very happy to be home and to have my dogs, my bed, my washing machine, and my own food. And Lindsey.

Speaking of Lindsey, our thanks go out to her for not only watching the dogs for two weeks (no small task) but also keeping the dogs an extra day when we got held up in London.

I will add photos/captions, and that will be the end of our Greece 2014 travel blog!


It's a little hard to see, but we spotted this from our taxi
It's called "American House Toast" and the logo is a 
woman in a graduation cap/gown and a burger.      


Fresh Hotel in Athens 

Cool desk/mirror thing 

Everything was very 'modern' 

That weird silver thing is the flush button

Front desk

Hotel restaurant 


 

Looking down into the ruins underneath the Acropolis Museum



On the way up to the Acropolis 

Theatre 



Above the theatre


Heading into the Acropolis 



The newer-looking white marble is where they have renovated  


 Looking back at the entrance to the Acropolis after we passed through

I give you: The Parthenon (and a guy's hat)


In the Agora (this has been renovated to look like its original form)


How jurors were chosen

Temple of Hephaestus in the Agora




This is blurry, but Heathrow's Terminal 2 is called The Queen's Terminal 

Weird shower in our hotel


And in case you are feeling patriotic and want a super backlit photo... 


 Biggest. Hanukkah gelt. Evar.

In London, ladies room signs suggest you should be wearing an umbrella for a skirt

Linux rebooting! Some people were really freaked out by this. It was kind of hilarious. 

In conclusion...



Monday, October 6, 2014

Hydra

It got too difficult to keep up with our blog in realtime, but I am going to attempt to catch up now that we are home.

Our ferry to Hydra was a smallish one, but somehow I didn't get motion sick. There was a small cafe in back, where I bought some chips and water. When we arrived at the dock, there was a row of donkeys waiting to pick people and luggage up. Our hotel wasn't far, so we opted to walk.

We joined the Driver Genomics clan for dinner and hung out, swapping stories of the other islands we had all been to. Then we went back to the hotel and crashed. The next day was the wedding, but we got some breakfast, rode a couple donkeys around town, and wandered the shops a little before having our nap. At four we met with the rest of the groom's side at a hotel so that we could all walk up to the church together (apparently that is tradition). John's friend Nick had gone into the hotel to see what was going on and there was a shaving party. Apparently another tradition is that everyone helps shave the groom, so Nick shaved a tiny spot on Petros' cheek.

The church was very small and very pretty. They gave us a folded handout that explained all the parts of a Greek orthodox wedding. There were no seats in the church - just an open space where we all stood. Compared to the Catholic weddings I've been to, this one went by in a flash. They sipped the wine three times, blessed the crowns three times, swapped the crowns three times, walked around the alter three times, etc. It was an interesting ceremony. I have to admit, I thought the crowns were really cool.

Then we all hopped on some water taxis and headed over to the reception. It was very pretty and there were so many courses at dinner that I thought I was going to explode. Apart from that, the reception was pretty similar to American weddings I've been to. At one point, a Greek lady was dancing with a glass of wine on her head. I didn't see it happen, but John's friend Aleah got a video.

We danced a lot, but I couldn't stay inside for long stretches because the catering staff was hanging out at the bar next to the dance floor, chain smoking. This was not a large room, and the doors were mostly closed. It was so smokey in there it was crazy. Things we take for granted in the US...

We water taxied back to the main harbor and went to our hotel to crash for the night. We saw a flier at our hotel for "Harriet's Horse Tours" and decided to try to make an appointment. I'm glad we did because it ended up being one of the major highlights of our entire trip.

The next day we met up with Harriet, her dog Cali, and two of her horses at the hotel. She is approximately the same age as us, and she was born in the UK. Her parents decided to move to Hydra when she was 10, and she has lived there ever since. She helped John and me mount our horses and then walked in front, leading our horses up the mountain and with Cali in tow. It was a serious trek up the mountain to a monastery overlooking all of Hydra. She goes up the mountain regularly, both for tours and for carrying supplies/construction gear. Since there aren't any motorized vehicles in Hydra, there is a lot of work for horses and donkeys.

The views were breathtaking all the way up. When we got to the monastery, we dismounted and went inside to rest ourselves (and the horses), and to have some tea. There are two nuns living at this monastery, and Harriet knows them well because she does a lot of tours and she always calls them ahead of time to see if they need anything. It was really incredible sitting in their kitchen listening to the three of them chat in Greek and catch up. It was clear that the nuns adore Harriet and that Harriet loves them too. The nuns recently started making small bracelets and keychains, saying a prayer for each bead, to sell to tourists who come to visit. Harriet asked if we would become their first customers because it would make them very happy, and we each gladly bought a bracelet.

It was so windy up on the mountain, but so calm and quiet in the monastery. It was really peaceful. And the nuns were just incredibly sweet, offering us candy and trying to ask us questions in Greek. I figured out that one of them was asking where we were from, and she seemed pleased that I understood. After a bit of a rest, and after Harriet helped them to check their blood pressure with the machine she had brought up, we said our goodbyes and got back on the horses.

The ride down the mountain was a little more painful than the ride up. Aside from the fact that we could already feel our legs getting shaky and worn out, my horse was very playful and fancied herself a show pony, so when there was a step down she would jump. I got better at cushioning the impact as time went on. It was a really fun ride, about three hours in total including the time at the monastery. We concluded that we would like to do some horse tours in the bay area because we had so much fun.

Our ferry back to Athens was a "Flying Dolphin," which is a strange looking boat that lifts up in front when it gets up to speed. We arrived at the port two hours later and took a cab to our hotel in what I can only describe as the most disgusting city on Earth.

Stay tuned for Athens, the Acropolis/museum, and the never-ending nightmare that is Heathrow airport.

Forgot a couple from Samos - Airport had pony merch. That made my day.


Olympic Airways had much more flattering flight attendant uniforms than our airlines


Airline snacks


A trash can by the Helenic Seaways Booth at Pyreaus


Hydra hotel 


OMG WE HAVE WIFI?!!?!


Bathroom door 


bathroom


Shower curtain holder was weird


Key to our hotel safe looked like it was from Harry Potter


Views from breakfast




Donkeys by the dock


View from our hotel


Don't mind me. I'm just on my cell phone while I pull a bunch of donkeys along up this hill



Horse ride in Hydra









After dismounting at the monastery (that donkey and brown horse belong to the nuns)


Panoramic view from the monastery


The nuns' kitchen 



What used to be a windmill in Hydra Town